Pool Articles

My pool has a bathtub ring…

Floating oils, dirt & waste can combine to form a scum line around the pool; this is why tile, an easily cleanable surface, is placed at water level around the perimeter of the pool. There are many tile cleanser products available which are applied with a scrubbing pad or brush and a little elbow grease. Abrasive cleaners work well, but should be avoided in vinyl lined pools, or pools using products such as Baquacil. On vinyl pools use a vinyl cleaner such as Armor All Cleaner (not conditioner), and on Baquacil treated pools, use a cleanser made without chlorine.

Cleaning the scum inside of the skimmer frequently will help to keep the tile cleaner, as scum sticks itself to clean plastic. Using enzyme products can reduce or eliminate the amount of attention to the scum line as the work to “eat” scum producing substances.

The floor of my pool is covered in leaves…

The method of choice for the pool janitor is using a leaf rake attached to a telescopic pole. Slowly push the leaf rake along the floor, scooping up leaves into the bag. Work the pool in sections, trying not to create leaf-stirring currents. It takes practice and a strong back, but it can be very effective.

Another method is the use of a Leaf Bagger, a product by Jandy Industries. Attached to a telescopic pole and a garden hose, the Leaf Bagger uses venturi action to suck leaves up into a large attached bag as you roll the unit over the leaves. It’s slow going, but you won’t have to stop to empty the bag too often.

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My pool always has stuff floating on top…

Firstly, you want to check the influent valving before the pump. The pool janitor recommends that the skimmer pull in about 75% of the total flow into the pump. For example, if your pool has two influent valves, a main drain and a skimmer, close the main drain halfway while leaving the skimmer valve fully open. If your pool has an attached spa, crack the spa drain valve open slightly, or leave it closed altogether.

It is recommended that you purchase of a leaf rake. There are also chemical products which are used to keep surface tension high, moving small debris to the sides of the pool. Another possible problem could be the condition of the weir in the skimmer. Make sure it is operating properly so that it creates a draw or “waterfall” into the skimmer basket. Also check that the water level is not so high that it is above the opening of the skimmer.

Do I need to brush my pool regularly?

Your pool brush attaches to a telescopic pole, and is most commonly used to brush algae off of the walls. To quote Jupiter Pool Cleaners; “Plaster pools like to be brushed…” Brushing your pool will keep dirt from occupying the small pores and starting small organic farms. Steel bristled brushes are very effective on algae. Do not use a steel brush on a vinyl lined pool.

Done regularly, brushing can also reduce the time spent vacuuming. Brush from the shallow end towards the deep end in overlapping strokes. Circle the pool towards the main drain, and much of the dirt will be swept up into the filter in this manner.

How do I vacuum my pool?

Roll your vacuum hose straight along the length of the pool. Attach one of the cuffed ends onto your vacuum head which is attached to your telescopic pole. Extend the pole and place the head (with the hose attached) into the water so that it rests on the floor of the pool. Point the head across the pool so that it doesn’t roll down the slope towards the deep end and prop the pole up against the pool’s edge.

From the point where the hose surfaces, begin pushing the hose straight down into the water, hand over hand, until you reach the other end. This is filling the hose up with water so there is no air in it which may cause difficulties for the pump when you attach the hose to the skimmer. Another method of “priming the hose” is to hold the cuffed end firmly over a return fitting to force the air out of the end attached to the vacuum head.

Once the hose is primed, remove the skimmer lid and the basket and stick the hose end into the hole at the bottom of the skimmer. If it sucks it in tightly, great. If not, you may need a threaded hose adapter to achieve a tight fit. Now, the suction that was at the hole is now at the vacuum head. Do not lift the head out of the water with the hose attached, or you will fill the hose with air, losing prime, and possibly drawing air into the pump.

Roll the vacuum head on the floor, over the debris, and VOILA!, you’re vacuuming. The suction will gradually decrease as the pump basket fills with vacuumed debris. When the pressure gauge drops and/or suction is sufficiently decreased, stop the pump and empty the basket. If pressure rises significantly, stop the pump and backwash the filter. Continue in this manner until the pool is clean.

I get no suction when I try to vacuum…

Most systems require adjustment to the valving to increase flow in the line through which you are vacuuming. You may want to close all the valves except the one on the line you are vacuuming through. On some systems, closing too many suction valves will cause the pump to cavitate, which occurs when it is starved for water. If the pump begins to shudder and make interesting noises, open the valves until this ceases. If your suction still sucks, check that the filter is clean and the pump basket has been cleaned. Before vacuuming debris into the pump basket, always make sure the basket is locked into place properly so that debris cannot bypass it and clog the impeller.

My pump loses prime when I try to vacuum…

If you notice that your pump begins to draw in air when you connect the hose into the skimmer, possibly drawing in so much air that the pump loses its prime of water, it probably originates from an old, dry rotted hose with holes in it, or a cavitating pump drawing air in through the plumbing or valving.

To check the hose, hold one end tightly against your thigh while you make a tight seal with the other end around your mouth. Blow into the hose; you should feel very strong resistance. If you can blow easily, the hose has one or more holes or splits in it, and you may be able to hear the air being drawn through when it’s hooked up for vacuuming.

When a vacuum hose is hooked into the skimmer and perhaps some valves are closed to increase suction, we are increasing the “vacuum pressure” in the line, creating a front pressure on the pump. This can cause the pump to draw air in places it normally wouldn’t under lower pressure. This situation should be corrected by locating the air source and making appropriate repairs

When I vacuum, the dirt passes right through…

When vacuuming fine, silty dirt or debris, you may notice a cloudy stream of dirt coming back into the pool via the return. This can continue slowly, long after you stop vacuuming, and can create a frustrating cycle for the pool janitor at your pool. More common in sand filters than in other types, the dirt can be pushed right through the filter, especially one which may need a sand replacement. Indeed, this situation may indicate internal filter problems. It may also indicate a problem with the filter control valve. Old, loose multiport or push-pull valves can allow water to bypass the filter and return to the pool unfiltered.

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Another possibility is that the pump is oversized for the filter, and is pushing the water so hard, it pushes dirt right through the filter medium. A sand filter actually works a little better when it’s a little dirty; the added dirt helps to trap more dirt, so don’t backwash prior to vacuuming a pool with a sand filter. You may also use filter aids, added through the skimmer, which provide a gelatinous layer on top of the sand bed to help trap dirt. Another tip is to vacuum to waste, especially if the debris is a fine silt that can clog the filter quickly. To do this, overfill the pool first, and set the multiport valve to the ‘Drain’/ ‘Vacuum to Waste’ position. Roll out the backwash hose, and vacuum the dirt (and water) right out of the pool.

My coping and deck have become discolored…

Leaves and dirt may stain concrete surfaces or after removing the winter cover, you may see a pronounced color difference. Pressure washing can remove these soils and restore original brightness to concrete and coping stones. A light acid washing on the coping stones also works very well, and algae or mildew can be lifted by scrubbing in a paste of calcium hypochlorite. Read all precautions before working with these dangerous chemicals in this manner.

My tiles have crusty white deposits…

Called efflorescence, this calcium deposit usually originates from grout or setting mortar. To remove, scrape it off the tile/wall, and/or acid wash it. There are products available such as CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust remover), which can be purchased at your local hardware store, will work well for such tasks. Another method for removing calcium deposits is the pumice stone. Pumice is a light porous glassy lava stone that can be rubbed over a pool stain to remove it. You can get a pumice stone that can attach to your telepole or a pumice stone that has a handle you can swim with. Works great on cement stains, berry stains and paint.

My plaster is stained…

Dirt, leaf tannins, rust and other minerals can stain the finish of your plastered pool. If the stain is organic; left from a leaf or acorn for example, a small amount of granular chlorine added at that location and allowed to settle on the stain will usually remove it instantly. Other non-organic stains will not be removed by chlorine. Do not place chlorine tablets directly into the pool; they will stain and etch the plaster.

If chlorine doesn’t work, acid usually will. Draining and acid washing will remove a thin layer of plaster (and stains), exposing fresh, new looking plaster beneath. A No-Drain acid wash can also be performed, with varying results. For localized stains , a stain master tool can be used to deliver acid directly to the stain. Stains can also be sanded with pumice stones or wet/dry sandpaper.

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Opening your swimming pool for the spring can be a lot of work to do on your own. You can often save money by doing some of the work yourself, i.e. removing the cover, or vacuuming the pool.

Here is a list of some things you can do yourself to help lower the cost of opening your pool in the spring:

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• Remove, clean, fold and store winter pool cover.
• Test water balance and adjust calcium, alkalinity and pH levels
• Replace winter stored items; ladders, auto cleaner, baskets, plugs, gauges, etc.
• Inspect and test electrical service to pumps, lights, heaters, etc.
• Lube valves and O-rings. Wrap threaded plugs with new thread sealant.
• Flood lines, prime-up pump, start-up your motor and adjust valves for proper flow.
• Brush tiles and scrub skimmers with phosphate-free cleanser.
• Blow off, then hose off, your pool deck.
• Skim pool surface. Vacuum pool if there is algae present.
• Super chlorinate to breakpoint levels with liquid or granular chlorine.
• Brush pool walls and steps. Re-check chemical levels in 12-24 hours, adjust as needed.
• Backwash your filter when pressure gauge rises 8-10lbs or flow diminishes considerably.

Cold Climate Regions (Snowbelt)

1. Remove the pool cover:
   • Solid Pool Covers:
     Use a small cover pump to remove rain and snow melt. As the water is being pumped, “tighten up” the cover by pulling on its edges, so the water gathers into one easily pumped area. Another tip is to use a leaf blower underneath the cover, which inflates the cover slightly, while pushing the water into one area.A “bag type” leaf net and your pool brush on the pole can be used to remove leaves and debris from the cover. After water and debris is removed, drain water bags (or remove whatever is being used to hold down sides of cover). Water bags can be folded or rolled after being hosed clean. Remove cover quickly by fan-folding it into 3ft to 5ft folds on one end of the pool. Take cover to open area where it can be unfolded and hosed clean. A sloping yard or driveway makes this easier. When the pool cover is clean, allow to dry or use blower to hasten drying. Wrap it up tightly and place in a cool, dry location until next fall.
   • Mesh Pool Covers: 
     Use a broom, brush, leaf net, hose and/or blower to remove leaves and debris from top and edges of your mesh pool cover. Remove springs from the anchors with the removal tool. If you can’t find your cover tool, in a pinch you can use a 3/4″ pipe to lever springs from anchors. Use 1/4″ hex key (Allen wrench) to carefully put anchors into the down position, flush with the deck. It’s good practice to clean with a hose and lubricate with light oil, like WD-40.After putting anchors down, fan fold the mesh cover (accordion-style) to facilitate its reinstallation in the fall. Use hose, broom or blower to clean off cover as you make each fold. Fold it seam to seam, then roll like a sleeping bag and stuff it into the storage bag. Place on chair to dry for a few hours before moving it INDOORS for summer storage. If storing outdoors, hang up off the ground, and use moth balls to repel rodents from nesting in the cover during the summer.
2. Remove expansion plugs (Freeze Plugs) from skimmers and wall returns 

   Put freeze plugs in a Ziploc bag and place near cover for use next fall. Discard any that are dry-rotted and/or cracked.

3. Reassemble filter, pump, heater, etc.Install drain plugs into pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, etc. Use thread sealant such as Teflon tape on all threaded plugs, connections. Do not over-tighten! If an above-ground pool, reattach hoses removed at closing. Reinstall the pump and skimmer baskets, pressure gauges. If your filter is a D.E. or Cartridge type pool filter, make sure that the center clamp band is tight and properly positioned. (It was probably removed in the fall to have the filters pulled out and cleaned with a hose, so make sure it was re-installed correctly before starting pump).

   Place filter valve to the filter position and open air bleeder (beneath pressure gauge, usually). Open all incoming valves (before pump) and all return side valves (after filter). Lubricate valves and O-rings as needed. Fill pump basket with water from pool or hose. Replace pump lid tightly. Look for leaks out of pump. Double check that all valves and pressure relief orifices are open. Slide valves (push-pull valves) should be in the down position on most DE filters and in the up position for Pac-Fab sand filters. Multiport valves should be on the filter position. {Or…the method I use is to start the pump with the valve in the Drain to Waste position, and when water begins to run out the waste line, shut off the pump. Place valve into the Recirculate position and run pump until water flows into the pool. Shut off the pump; switch the valve to the Filter position to complete the process.}

4. Turn on power to pump & start systemWatch the pressure on the filter gauge closely with your hand on power switch! Turn off (quickly!) if pressure rises well above normal range; or above 30 psi. Recheck that all return side valves are open. If no pressure builds up at all, and pump is not pumping, shut off power after 1 minute. Repeat priming process mentioned before. If pump still won’t prime up, try closing main drain valve, if you have one, and starting off the skimmer(s) alone. If pump still won’t catch prime after 5 or so attempts, check incoming pipes for air leaks. Repair as needed. After starting the filter, add 1 lb of DE powder per 5 sq. ft of filter area into the skimmer (only if you have a DE filter, of course). Do this quickly, within 2 minutes of starting filter. If you have a cartridge filter, you should replace cartridge element every 2-5 years. Sand filters should have their sand changed every 5-7 years.

   Once the system is started, adjust valves and return fittings for proper flow. Check for leaks around pump and filter; repair as needed. Note start-up pressure on filter gauge, it’s helpful to write this on the tank with a marker, or mark the gauge itself. When psi is 10lbs above this (clean) number, backwash the filter. Empty the pump basket also at this time, or earlier if you notice a drop in filter pressure. If you have a pool heater, follow pilot lighting and test firing instructions, usually printed on back of front heater door. Operate to test and adjust all other equipment.

5. Equipment inspection, Safety inspectionSpring opening time is ideal for annual preventative maintenance steps such as cleaning, lubricating, inspecting and replacing components in all of your system equipment. Check again for pressure leaks which may result in pipes or equipment blowing apart. Note water level and watch the pool for leakage during the following few days. Consult your owner’s manual and give everything a good inspection. Solar blankets should be kept off the pool until the chlorine and pH levels have stabilized.

   Look for and correct hazardous electrical conditions, such as broken conduit or connectors, lack of proper grounding or bonding, wires exposed to weather, etc. Inspect pool for tripping and slipping hazards. Check all points of access to the pool, gates and doors leading to the pool should be locked and alarmed. Other layers of protection, such as pool covers, pool alarms, or physical barriers to the pool that do not block visibility of the pool, should be considered. Rescue equipment and a working phone are also encouraged. Most important of all for pool safety would be adequate supervision of swimmers.

6. Clean the poolSkim pool, vacuum pool, and brush pool, in that order. Leaf rake (bag) types skim nets are best, also useful for scooping large amounts of leaves or debris from pool floor. If pool is especially silty or has lots of algae, vacuum the Pool to Waste. This means to bypass the filter, and vacuum dirt from floors/walls out the backwash line. This prevents constant clogging/cleaning of filter. To do this, you may need to fill pool to the very top, so you can waste 1-3 “. Place the multiport filter valve on drain to waste position (usually 2pm, if viewed as a clock face) If you have a push-pull filter valve, or a cartridge type filter there is no easy way to vacuum to waste, except for cutting the pipe coming out of the pump and then reconnecting afterwards. After skimming and vacuuming the pool carefully, use a Pool Brush on the pool thoroughly.
7. Check and Balance Water ChemistryUse a good quality pool water test kit. Replace test kit reagents every spring (annually). Follow pool water test instructions carefully to obtain accurate results.

   Test alkalinity first. If below the range of 80 – 120 ppm, add Total Alkalinity Increaser (Sodium Bicarbonate or baking soda) at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gals to raise alkalinity levels 10 ppm. Calcium hardness level should be 180 – 220 ppm. Add Calcium Hardness Increaser (Calcium Chloride) at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gals to raise Calcium levels 5 ppm. Test pH level after water has circulated 8 hrs. The pH level should be 7.4 – 7.6, add pH Increaser (soda ash or sodium carbonate) if the water is acidic/ corrosive (below 7.4). Add pH Decreaser (muriatic acid or sodium bisulfate) if water is basic/ scaling (above 7.6).

   A good pool test kit will allow you to perform an acid demand or base demand test to determine exact amounts of acid or base needed (demanded). A clarifier may be used to help filter efficacy. After balanced chemicals have been circulated for 8 hrs, shock or super-chlorinate the pool. Add granular Shock Treatment (Calcium Hypochlorite) to pool at a rate of 1 lb per 10,000 gallons, or use Clorox Bleach (Sodium Hypochlorite) at a rate of 5 gals per 10,000 gallons/pool water. Cyanuric Acid levels should be tested if chlorine is used (outdoor pools only). Add CYA (Conditioner or Stabilizer) to raise Cyanuric Acid if the levels are below 30 – 50 ppm.

   Always read instructions on packaging for proper handling, treatments and application of the pool chemicals. Distribute them broadly and never mix chemicals. Brushing pool after adding chemicals is helpful to distribution and dilution. Re-test water daily and readjust if needed. Backwash the filter after 24 hours. If algae is still present, re-shock pool, or add a “kill” dosage of a quality pool algaecide. Your pool is ready for use when chlorine level drops below 3.0 ppm, and water is clear. It may be a good move to have an annual check-up to your pool by a pool professional, which is why many people use pool companies to open the pool. If there is a pool store nearby, you should at least take a water sample in to be tested by another test kit.

Warm Climate Regions (Sunbelt)

If you didn’t really winterize the pool, but rather reduced the amount of filter time and attention you gave the pool, then you can probably skip items 1-3 above. But follow steps 4-7 to keep things sanitary and working safe and properly. Again, consider hiring a professional pool company, at least once annually to double check your work and spot problems or maintenance items you may have missed.

Service companies can also make equipment tune-ups easier. Most pool service vans carry the small parts needed for your pool cleaner, skimmers, ladders, etc. Contact Jupiter Pool Cleaners Today! Any part you need for your equipment should be promptly replaced to prevent further damage to the unit itself. Some items, pool cleaners in particular, if not maintained, can be destroyed beyond repair with continued use.

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Let’s face it–the only thing essential about a swimming pool is that the water be fresh and clean. Let’s face something else, too: Achieving this can involve more chemistry than you may have seen since junior year in high school–if then. Don’t worry, though. Here are all the important concepts and terms you need to know to keep your pool clean. Just be sure to follow all manufacturer’s directions on the package of a chemical carefully.

Things You’ll Need

• PH Tester
• Broom
• Soda Ash (sodium Carbonate)

Instructions Balancing the water

1. Note: The three factors mentioned here–pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness–all affect one another, so it will take some trial and error to get all three in the proper range at once. Also note that before you add any chemical–especially an acid–to the water, you need to first turn on the pool’s filter.
2. Use a water-testing kit to measure the calcium hardness (how “hard” or “soft” the water is). The proper calcium hardness is between 200 and 400 parts per million (ppm).
3. Following package directions, add calcium carbonate dihydrate to raise calcium hardness; add sodium hexametaphosphate to lower it. Carefully pour the chemical mixture into the pool at various spots a foot or two (about half a meter) away from the sides of the pool.
4. Measure the water’s total alkalinity. This figure should be in the range of 80 to 150 ppm; 100 to 120 ppm is best.
5. Adjust the total alkalinity by adding sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to raise it or sodium bisulfate (dry acid) to lower it.
6. With a pH tester, measure the water’s pH. The proper pH for a pool is in the range of 7.2 to 7.6.
7. To lower the pH, add sodium bisulfate or liquid muriatic acid. To raise it, add soda ash (sodium carbonate).
8. Add more chemicals as needed until the water is in balance.

Treating water with chlorine

9. Scoop chlorine granules into water in a nonmetal container, following package directions. Always wear goggles and rubber gloves when handling chlorine, and always put the chlorine into the water–don’t pour the water over the chlorine.
10. Stir for about 30 seconds, and leave for 30 minutes to settle.
11. Turn on the filter. Reaching as far into the middle of the pool as possible (perhaps by standing on a diving board), pour the chlorine into the pool. Discard any sediment left in the container.
12. Add chlorine three to four times a week for a pool in heavy use.
13. Occasionally–no more than once a week–you may need to superchlorinate (also called shock) the pool to burn any built-up bacteria, algae and ammonia. Following chlorine package directions, make a solution for superchlorination (it will be three to five times as strong as normal chlorine).
14. Add the chlorine solution to the pool after sundown, if possible, as the sun’s rays break down chlorine.
15. Before allowing anyone to go in the pool, test the residual chlorine level to make sure it has gone back down below 3.0 ppm. This will take at least several hours.

Keeping the water dirt- and debris-free

16. Remove any leaves from the pool with a leaf net each time you go swimming.
17. Empty and rinse off the strainer basket of the skimmer once or twice a week, and as often as daily during falling-leaf season.
18. Keep the deck clean by regularly sweeping and then rinsing it with a garden hose.
19. Use a cover over your pool as often as possible.
20. Thoroughly clean your pool filter at least monthly. Clean a sand filter by backwashing: Reverse the flow of water through the filter for 2 to 3 minutes until the wastewater is clear.
21. For a cartridge filter, remove the filter cartridge and wash it with a hose with a high-pressure nozzle. Replace the cartridge.